sultanhamam square

A photographer wanting to travel to a new city might want to discover its interesting spots or photogenic vistas before they go. I want to share some photo-routes in Istanbul, the city where I  live. These routes are not only of streets or places of interest, but also my favourite restaurants and cafes (photography, after all,  can be tiring work). I try to write a little on the background of the historical places you’ll encounter. I hope you enjoy my routes. Please share your feedback with me about the routes you use.

EMINONU ROUTES

•  Cakmakcilar Yokusu, Nasir Han, Buyuk Yeni Han, Buyuk Valide Han

cakmakcilar hill

First of all, It’s difficult to see some buildings while walking around the Eminonu area. It’s probably possible not to see the historical caravansarys or “hans” (medieval trade center) with their big courtyards. You need to find the gateways and entrances. The flow of people, and shops, can hide buildings.

In this area, you can see footprints of  both Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire, because it’s the old trade center of civilizations.

If you walk from Sultanhamam square towards the sloping street known as Mahmutpasa Yokusu, you come across another sloping street called Cakmakcilar Yokusu at the corner. It’s a steep hill. When you follow this route, you walk through old narrow streets, past small shops with their colorful wares.

It’s perfect for photography. Smile to people (it always works). While you take a picture watch out for porters with heavy loads, as they make their way through the crowds. This area is closed to motor vehicles from 10:00 am to 17:00 pm.

nasir han

At lower end of Cakmakcilar Yokusu, you see the narrow gate of Nasir Han on the right. It’s difficult to see this gate because this small gate is like a shop entrance, but when you enter the gate and follow the corridor you’ll reach a small courtyard. This building was built around the 1960’s. It has beautiful curving stairs from that era. I think you’ll like it.

buyuk yeni han

If you continue on up Cakmakcilar Yokusu, after about 40m you’ll reach the big gate of Buyuk Yeni Han on the left. I think this han is the highest of all. This structure was built of stone and brick. It has 3 floors, about 150 shops and two big courtyards. It can be interesting to take photos in the courtyard. Since upper floors of the han can be desolate, some advice: don’t walk there alone.

buyuk valide han

If you continue on up Cakmakcilar Yokusu about 20m, you’ll see the big gate of Buyuk Valide Han on the right. (opposite the start of Tarakcilar street). It’s an amazing place for photographers. It’s probably the oldest han of the city. It’s my favourite. This place was built as a trade center. Some parts of the walls are from the Byzantine era. You can see architectural traces of Roman style (roman bricks).

Buyuk Valide Han has three courtyards, two floors and about 200 rooms. Nowadays, most of these rooms are empty, or many of them are being used for storage. In the middle of the courtyard there is a small mosque.

When you come to the entrance, pass the first flights of stairs (to the left and right) and continue through a small courtyard to the next flights of stairs. Climb the staircase on the left to the first floor. The first floor of Buyuk Valide Han can be empty and parts may be in need of restoration. I strongly advise you not to go alone for your safety.

On the first floor, you can see all the courtyard and historical parts of the han. Continue that way, this part of building is very interesting and has an oriental soul. You’ll like this. You can see the small ateliers at this section.(handmade touristic lamp manufacturers etc.) Shadows and lights are amazing.

All trade buildings (Han) in the Eminonu area have someone in charge for simple works and safety . In Turkish he is called an odaci. The odaci has keys of the building’s doors. In this building, the odaci is called Mr.Mehdi. He is a nice person and likes to help tourists. (Please don’t forget to tip him.)

mehdi

You should try to find Mehdi in this first floors corridor(he usually stands near the door) because he has a key to the old wooden door that is the entrance to the rooftop. Please tell Mehdi that you want to climb up to the rooftop to see the view of Istanbul. He’ll help you.

Behind this old door, you can see a view of the city from the Bosphorus to the Halic. This point is awesome for photographers. This wide angle is very different from others. Galata Tower, Galata Bridge, Beyazit and others…as well as the domes of the Buyuk Valide Han and nearby buildings. Every season the view is different. It’s especially excellent in winter. Please don’t forget: the old rooftop can be dangerous if you stand too close to the edges – watch your step.

I suppose  all photographers love eating as much as taking pictures. I recommend  Kofteci Mustafa, a restaurant nearby.  It isn’t a luxury restaurant, and isn’t large, but it has the most delicious kofte (meatballs) you have ever tasted in Istanbul. To reach this restaurant; keep walking from Cakmakcilar street uphill and turn left into Tigcilar street. About 50 meters later you reach the Mercan Aga Mosque. Kofteci Mustafa is in narrow street off Tigcilar Street behind this mosque.  Also this street is a resting point for porters. After your dinner you can take pictures there if you want.

kofteci mustafa

• Tigcilar Street, Zincirli Han, Grand Bazaar, Cebeci Han, Buyuk Abud Efendi Han, Kurkcu Han, Hamdibey Passage

If you continue walking along Tigcilar street, you will pass small

tigcilar street

restaurants, cafes and jewellery shops. On both sides of this street there are narrow gates to small hans with numerous ateliers. These hans aren’t visited by tourists frequently. There are handicraft ateliers where craftsmen work in silver and gold. Please pay attention not to enter ateliers without the permission of atelier owners, or the person in charge. These craftsmen are unique in Istanbul. They use only the basic hand tools  that have been used for centuries. The craftmanship is of a very high standard. Maybe, you will have a chance to see these unique craftsmen while they are working. The Mercan gate of The Grand Bazaar is at the end of Tigcilar Street. To reach the Zincirli Han, walk through this gate, into the Grand Bazaar, and turn first left. This small han has a beautiful courtyard and a fountain. The structure around the courtyard, and the flagstones of the courtyard, have kept something of  their orginality. Jewellery shops and carpet shops are on the first floor of courtyard. You can reach every point of this building easily. The red walls and green color of the garden are awesome.

zincirli han

The Grand Bazaar has a lot of gates and streets. Some gates provide access to the narrow streets or hans. If you don’t want to get lost, you should pay attention to the slope of the ground. You can find your way more easily by this method. (It works in the beyazit – mahmutpasa area.) Uphill, you are walking towards Beyazit; downhill, you walking towards Mahmutpasa.

entrance of cebeci han

After a touristic walk in the Grand Bazaar, it can be interesting to find the side doors of  the Bazaar, and the courtyards beyond them, like Zincirli Han. For example, to find Cebeci Han, try to walk from the street opposite Zincirli han’s gate (by following the slope of the ground) towards Beyazit. You’ll reach a beautiful big courtyard with a tree in the middle. I think this courtyard is so silent and restful compared to the Grand Bazaar. You can drink a cup of tea or Turkish coffee at one of the teahouses around. Upstairs, there are a few ateliers manufacturing copper goods, and carpet and kilim shops. You can see some giant objects made for hotels (ewers, jugs, etc.)

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